We use 100% naturally produced oils and is safe on all unfinished rosewood, ebony and maple fretboards. Our revolutionary formula penetrates & conditions the wood to dry fast and give it a new look for months. F-ONE leaves your fretboard looking new, playing great and feeling smooth, never sticky or tacky. In addition, we believe the high acidity levels of lemon oil can dry out the fretboard over time and require more frequent fretboard care. We chose not to use any lemon oil because it contains d-limonene, which is a strong solvent that is used to remove paint and glue.
100% free of any lemon oil extracts, waxes, petroleum distillates, silicone, and water. F-ONE is formulated using a complex mixture of the finest ultra refined tree and seed oils to clean, condition & protect your fretboard/fingerboard. Fortunately it'll be completely covered by the pickguard so I'm not going to sweat it.F-ONE gives wood its life back. I should add- I got a little sloppy with the conductive paint in the neck pickup.I masked the surrounding region but the paint hadn't quite dried before I started handling it so you see a little of the paint smeared over the edges. I've corrected most of these since the picture was taken. On this second pic you can see the imperfections along the lower edge of the body, from the jack location to the horn. But it's as good as it's going to get at this point. It looks decent in the pics, but I'm not exactly over the moon with my scraping job. As long as I stick to light coats, you don't see any unevenness, and this allows me to spray locally when I screwwith the binding. I have one little area I need to re-spray and scrape- about 2" of binding and I should be done. Was up till around 3:00am last night doing this **** and today I was a zombie at work. Rounds 3, 4, 5 and 6- Same as above- I was careful but ended up overscraping in a couple of tight areas, especially the damn horn at the cutaway. Still after about 1/2 the binding was done I had to go back and re-spray a couple of areas. Again, easier said than done, but I was getting somewhere. Round 2- I removed the mini box-cutter blade from the plastic housing, and split it in half.The key is to hold it at the end near the point with your thumb and fore finger as firmly as you can, and then let your fingers guide your motion following the curves of the body. However, I did pick up some important pointers regarding technique. If you're a noob like me, you cannot do it that fast. It is NOWHERE as easy as he makes it out to be. While I was waiting for it to dry, I re-watched the Tom Anderson scraping video. Round 1 was a total bust.Ĭleaned all the dust off and re-sprayed a couple of light coats over the affected areas. I had barely done a few inches when I realized I had to stop- I'd over scraped in a couple of places, and wasn't getting a clean edge at all. Since I used opaque paint, I was sort of scraping blind- not sure exactly where the inner edge was. The narrow edge along the front is a totally different story. The wider part of the binding, which is on the sides was pretty easy, just needed minor cleanup since I'd masked that area off. I'm really happy with the matte green paint because it's super forgiving. NO WAY as quick and easy as you see in the videos!Ģ. When you do it the first time, it's a real *****. I decided to tackle the binding last night.
Update from last night- my first real trial by fire!